Kicking the tires

by Erin on February 19, 2014

Hey, a new dress:
Altered Simplicity 5238

This is Simplicity 5238, with a few little changes. Mainly, pockets:

added pockets Simplicity 5238

I tried plain side-seam pockets first, but they hung badly, and lately I’ve been really into this style of pockets (inset? not actually sure what to call them). They can be a bit of a pain to add, especially if the skirt has pleats or gathers, but they’re worth the munging and hacking.

Here’s the pattern pieces (the dress above has v1):
pocket pieces

Oh I suppose you want to see the (badly pressed) back, huh? I don’t usually do a center back zipper, but:
back zip Simplicity 5238

I also had some fun with the neck and sleeve facings:
inner facings 2 Simplicity 5238

This is an incredibly comfortable dress — really easy to wear (especially with the deeper pockets). I have also made it in dark denim and am thinking about another color of denim, or maybe even liberating some of my stash of Liberty twill.

I’m also looking for a dress with similar lines to this one to make in softer fabrics, like silk — something with scoop pockets but gathers, I think, and a soft kimono-sleeved bodice. Anything come to mind? (Remember, I’m awfully lazy and hate drafting things …)

(Also! This is the first post at my ┬ánew blog host, the very very nice Highly recommended. With any luck this should solve some of the “stuck” posts issues and commenting problems … please let me know if not!)

{ 10 comments… read them below or add one }

Andrea February 19, 2014 at 8:14 pm

Hurray! It’s working again! One click and there you are, with the newest dress. So pleased.


Heather February 19, 2014 at 11:01 pm

Happy Housewarming!


elke February 20, 2014 at 1:11 am

Much better, thank you!


Carol February 20, 2014 at 12:42 pm

So far, so good. Like the dress, too. That’s been my favorite style of pocket lately. Easier to get into with my hands and it doesn’t seem to drag the line of the skirt down as much when I put stuff in the pockets. Now I need to stop on my way home from work and pick up some denim…


Camomile February 20, 2014 at 3:58 pm

Re: slant pockets
I read on a sewing blog last year (can’t remember which one) that in France, slant pockets are called Italian pockets and in Italy they’re called French pockets.


gatorgirl4325 February 20, 2014 at 4:27 pm

Not *exactly* what you asked for, but I so want to make this is in a silky fabric for summer;


Joni February 21, 2014 at 3:17 pm

I am SO RELIEVED! I thought you had given up blogging and wasn’t sure how I was to go on living.


Renita February 24, 2014 at 2:07 am

To fix this kind of pocket on RTW, I make a small centered tuck in the pocket edge, stitch for 1/2” to 1” from the edge toward the pocket bottom, and voila a little detail removing the excess on the pocket edge!! Works every time.


LinB February 24, 2014 at 5:19 pm

Sewing instructor Sandra Betzina recommends pin fitting your pocket pieces over a sewing ham, to mimic the curve of your hip. Manipulate the pocket and inset until they close smoothly — you’ll usually find that there’s a tiny wee wedge of fabric along the seam edge that needs to be removed, to make the pocket fit properly. Achieves the same effect, although it is probably more trouble than, Renita’s excellent solution to the “pocket gaposis” problem.


Sarah February 24, 2014 at 6:38 am

Hey Erin, Saw this dress in person at the BA Sewists meetup. It was fabulous. I know its creepy to say, but thought you looked familar, I have been reading your blog for years! See you next month, Sarah


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