The Hundred Dresses: Day 76

I had really high hopes for this Heidi:

pink shirting Heidi

I love the pink and red and gray colorway:

pink shirting Heidi bodice

I kind of bailed on trying to match the stripes, since I think it’s impossible to match stripes and gathers:

pink shirting Heidi back

Pockets, lined in batiste:

pink shirting Heidi pocket

Side zip:

pink shirting Heidi side zip

The whole dress is lined in batiste, actually:

pink shirting Heidi inside 2

I’m not sure why I lined the dress, the fabric didn’t really need it. Probably just to see if I could:

pink shirting Heidi inside

But this is why I hardly ever wear it, and why it’s going in the Goodwill pile, finally — there’s a subtle flaw in the fabric and I managed to cut it right across the front bodice. Arrgh:

pink shirting Heidi flaw

I know it’s almost imperceptible, but I know it’s there, and it drives me crazy. So … oh well. I scrutinize fabric a LOT more now, especially bargain fabrics (which this was). If I find a flaw, I mark it (on BOTH sides) with blue painters tape, so that I can’t help but see it when I’m cutting.

The Hundred Dresses: Day 71

This dress was an indulgence:

Seersucker Mail Order 4946

It doesn’t really show up against the light background — it’s from this pattern:
MailOrder4946

It’s an indulgence because I really don’t need a light-colored seersucker dress (especially as cold as it’s been this month!) and things have been so busy that if I’m sewing, it should be sensible things. But I really loved this pattern, and the minute I saw it I knew I wanted to make it in stripes, with the yoke stripes going in the opposite direction from the bodice stripes.

Here’s a better look at the bodice:

Seersucker Mail Order 4946 bodice

And the yoke stitching detail:

Seersucker Mail Order 4946 detail

The pattern wanted to you to turn in the yoke piece 1/4 inch and then topstitch it, but I thought that was a nightmare scenario … so fussy! So I faced the piece with some very very lightweight batiste, and then topstitched the faced piece:

4946 yoke facing

4946 yoke

Here’s the side zip:
Seersucker Mail Order 4946 side zip

And a closeup of the inverted pleats — the pattern wanted me to stitch them down, and I tried it, but it didn’t work with my body type (cough, apple, cough) so I picked out those stitches and let it be open pleats:

Seersucker Mail Order 4946 skirt

And here’s the back:

Seersucker Mail Order 4946 back

I definitely want to make this again … good thing I have lots of striped fabric stockpiled!

 

The Hundred Dresses: Day 38

This is a totally new pattern! Well, new as in “I haven’t sewn it before/posted it before” not new as in “produced in this century.”

This is Vogue 8460, and I lurrrrrrve it:

Vogue 8460

(sorry for the fuzzy image, click on the pic to see it bigger)

I know on the pattern envelope it looks like a party dress, but I have enough party dresses … Here’s what I made with it, shown with belt (purchased):

stripe Vogue 8460 with belt

This is a nice shirting fabric I bought online sometime last year. Here it is sans belt:
stripe Vogue 8460 front 2

Of course, the pleasure in this dress is in matching those rainbow stripes!
stripe Vogue 8460 front stripes

They don’t match at the waistline, but that’s okay, the chevron effect on the skirt is what I was going for:
stripe Vogue 8460 front waist seam

This zipper? This is probably the best zipper I’ve made in AGES. B+!
stripe Vogue 8460 zipper

And the back stripe matchup:
stripe Vogue 8460 stripe matching

I hemmed it with bright vintage hem facing, which I love. It’s getting harder and harder to find bright hem facing these days. (Also, I’m going to fewer yard sales.)
stripe Vogue 8460 hem facing

The shoulder stripes … you can see the facing rolling a little there, I probably should have understitched it:

stripe Vogue 8460 shoulder

Here’s a glimpse of the neckline facing. I zigzag finish my facings on the inside (and I also didn’t press this one very well):
stripe Vogue 8460 facing

And the back (the skirt’s not properly positioned in this one, sorry!):
stripe Vogue 8460 back

I’ve made this pattern twice more since this one, and I really love it. It’s super-simple to wear (and yes there are pockets in all these dresses)!

The Hundred Dresses: Day 21

Have you all picked up yet on the fact that I will basically make the same pattern over and over again until we both drop from exhaustion? Here is another Simplicity 5723, which needs a bit more pressing than it got:

stripey Simplicity 5723

This is in a nice slightly-heavier-than-usual shirting stripe. I had really high hopes for this fabric, and then this happened:
stripey Simplicity 5723

No matter what I tried, I just could not get those stripes to match up. I probably took it apart four or five times. I may take it apart one more time and use some fabric tape to stave off presser-foot creep, which is what I’m blaming for the mismatch. (Well, presser foot creep and my slightly off cutting out.)

The zipper is a C:
stripey Simplicity 5723

I have no idea why I had any navy bias binding at all. My guess is that I bought it in a big lot at a yard sale:
stripey Simplicity 5723

And what happened here? Your guess is as good as mine:
stripey Simplicity 5723

This is my favorite part of this dress … I really like the chevron effect:
stripey Simplicity 5723

 

I’m not sure where I bought this … it might have been on the remnant table at Britex. It has that slick expensive-Italian-cotton feel. (And hey, when did Britex start selling online? Ooooooh! And like I NEED more places to buy fabric online … )

The Hundred Dresses: Day 10

Hey! We’re 1/10 of the way there! Don’t worry, there are still many, many dresses to come. Like this one, which is more than a little reminiscent of the Day 1 dress:

Simplicity 1538 in heavy cotton/linen

This is made from Simplicity 1538, which I really liked in the pattern illustration, despite the fembots-on-the-attack arms:

Simplicity_1538

I’m not as happy with it in Real Life, though, and I think it’s my own damn fault for using this super-heavy Marc Jacobs cotton/linen canvas. Wrong fabric choice, despite the wonderful stripes. Here’s the back:

Simplicity 1538 in heavy cotton/linen

(As evidence that this dress would look much better in a lighter fabric, check out this super cute gingham version here on WeSewRetro.)

The back stripes are off JUST ENOUGH to bug me:

Simplicity 1538 in heavy cotton/linen

The side zip didn’t fare so well in the heavier fabric either:
Simplicity 1538 in heavy cotton/linen

And for some reason this pattern is about a inch too long in the bodice, a problem I never have with Simplicity B34 patterns. I might just make it again (but not in this fabric). And speaking of the fabric, using up this great fabric on a “meh” dress bummed me out, but then I found that it’s still on sale at Mood. (It’s a bit expensive, but maybe I can have a second chance!)

And … The Hundred Dresses was officially published yesterday! GirlsLife.com had a nice piece that makes me hopeful for the Youth of Today.

The Hundred Dresses: Day 6

Six days! Woot! (Which made me go search out this half-remembered novel, which I think now I will have to re-read.)

I had high hopes for this pattern:

Butterick 9542

 

It just seemed so … head of the PTA, if you know what I mean. No-nonsense yet somehow soft.

This is what it turned out like:

gray Butterick 9542 front view

It might have been my fabric choice … this is a little less “head of the PTA” and a little more “candy striper in the depression ward.” The fabric is nicer closer up:

 
gray Butterick 9542 bodice view
 
I even made covered buttons!

gray Butterick 9542 covered buttons view

And because I knew I couldn’t get the pockets to match stripes perfectly, I tried a little embroidered distraction:

gray Butterick 9542 pocket distraction view

And I carefully put in a waist hook, a detail I usually gloss over by promising myself that I’ll just wear a belt:

gray Butterick 9542 waist hook view

Here’s the back view:

gray Butterick 9542 back view

And a closeup of the back collar, which I’m not happy with — I didn’t turn & press it quite right:

Gray Butterick 9542, back collar view

Even with the slightly institutional air and the wonky collar, I would probably wear this a bit more often if the skirt were a bit fuller. It looked plenty full in the illustration, but it’s just narrow enough that I think I’m going to tear that front placket fold if I wear it riding my bike, and when I sit down it pulls, too (not fun).

So the search for the perfect shirtdress continues …

The Hundred Dresses: Day 3

Let’s get right to it, shall we? Day 3 of the Hundred Dresses blogathon:

yellow stripe 9929 front view 2

Obviously, another 9929. (You’ll be seeing a lot of these.)

Here’s the back:
yellow stripe 9929 back view

You can probably just see that the yellow stripe is not completely flush with the edge of the hem. (I decided that I did not care.)

The side zip on this was a nightmare. The zipper broke, I had to take it out and put it in again, and … well, it was just UNFUN. So that is my excuse for why it is badly placed and why the waist seam doesn’t match up:

yellow stripe 9929 terrible zip view

 

What I like most about this dress is how nice it looks with red:
Yellow stripe 9929 -- front w/belt

The lighter stripes aren’t white, but a very pale gray, so I really like the red with it, it feels sophisticated to me for some inexplicable reason.  I bought this fabric from Fabric.com but it’s sold out now; there’s an olive/ivory colorway still available that’s really nice.

The pocket lining is from this shirting that I’ve been using as pocket linings for YEARS. It was so pretty yet really wrong for any pattern I ever tried to set it up with. But so right for pocket linings, because it has this subtle texture that feels really nice when you have your hands in your pockets.

yellow stripe 9929 pocket lining view

And of course it’s not really visible in this photo, but there’s a tonal thing going on with the gray of the pocket lining and the gray of the stripe. Trust me, it’s there. I pay an inordinate amount of attention to these things.
I’ve been really into stripey fabrics lately. (I’m not sure if it’s the influence of living so close to Alcatraz now or what.) There are a lot of stripes in the fabric hoard right now, and I’ve been ogling some more. There’s this Japanese fabric that is so perfectly Japan-does-France that it hurts … Anyway, how about y’all? Are you pro- or anti-stripe? (And remember, the idea that horizontal stripes broaden anything other than the mind is pure hokum, says SCIENCE.)