I am pretty sure I have had this "almost done!" since before Thanksgiving; I just haven't had a minute to finish it up. But last night I couldn't sleep, so I did the needful, which was really only putting in a zipper and hemming the skirt and sleeves. (I did have to hack seven inches off the skirt — this was made for Amazons, it seems.)
Here's the original pattern, Vogue 9670. I can't remember where I bought it—if you sold it to me, leave a note in the comments!
Here's my version:
Ignore the little bit of iron shine in the picture, please. And that it needs pressing elsewhere. I really need a steamer. Or a better press cloth. Or hints from you guys.
I made the facing out of Liberty print, because the dress fabric is really thick, and because I knew I wouldn't be able to get the facing perfectly flat, no matter how much I trimmed and clipped the curves. This facing is now meant to show, making a virtue of necessity.
Oh look! I finally got the zipper to match up nicely at the side seam! Which one of you wonderful people told me that marking trick? Thank you! It works! I was really pleased with how the zipper went in, especially since I was doing this at 11 at night.
The above picture was taken with flash — it's the truest representation of the color. It's an olive-y color, not brown. It's a heavy brushed cotton with a good bit of Lycra in it. It doesn't really stretch, it just gives. Very comfortable.
And here's the back. Kind of boring. But at least the back seams match up okay.
I really liked this pattern: it went together great, was easy to alter (I added more room at the waist as always, sigh), and except for being intended for women eight inches taller than I am (see the illustration? That skirt is right below the knee, amiright? On me it was almost to the ankle!) it fits well.
Next thing on my sewing list? Another crossword puzzle dress. The tournament is coming up!
A Dress A Day 
Lovely. And all the nicer for the Liberty facing.
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I love the contrast facing! Beautiful. I would appreciate a link to the zipper tips. Even though zippers and I get along fine these days, it’s always nice to get a new angle on an old skill. Thank you!
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I would love to learn how you did such a beautiful job on that zipper!
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Great picture-sometimes it is hard to envision what the finished product will look like.Thanks Again,Libby
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From the picture on the envelope I’d never make the dress- but having seen what you did with that facing makes it pop! I LOVE IT!
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I love the facing! Don’t fret about the extra inches at the waist- these patterns were made for people who wore girdles!!
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gorgeous! the contrasting facing lends some needed interest, I think. What’s your plan re. belt?
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In my plan, I am beltless. :-)The zipper trick is so easy, I can’t believe I never did it before. Once you’ve sewn one side, zip the thing up, and mark on the zipper (I used orange china marker) where it hits the waist seam. Then be sure to match that up when you sew the other side!
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The contrast collar is lovely and striking. Have you considered picking up the print in one other place? A sash would be nice unless you’re not a sash girl, or a covered belt.
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Okay I am probably being retarded, but I don’t understand that zipper tip.
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I think this looks great!
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I think it’s lovely. I had a snicker at “did the needful.” I hear a lot about doing the needful from contacts in India. Although, I hear it has some interesting connotations in the UK.
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I think it’s the best you’ve shown us – the craftswomanship is wonderful. I think you found the winter dress you were looking for.
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Erin, Thanks for the zipper idea. That’s a great solution and would work on any zipper, really, even one that doesn’t go over a seam–just mark the length halfway through on the zipper and the garment. Voila!
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I love the little peek of Liberty print.
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I’m being thick headed on the zipper instructions, too. Do you mean you mark the wrong side of the zipper teeth where it hits the waist on the already sewed side?
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No, no, I don’t think I explained it well. (I should have taken a photo.)You mark the unsewn side so that you can match it up to the waist seam when you sew it up. If that makes any sense.
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I like the contrasting facing. If I may suggest a pressing tip, press your seam open first. Press if flat, if that makes more sense. Then fold on the stitching line and press again. No little bits of fabric will try to hide in the fold that way. You get a cleaner fold and line that way. Does that make any sense? —K
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This is a great dress and design. The collar looks better the way you did it, too. You can experiment with wearing some jade beads or something inside the neckline, so you just get a glimpse of them at the opening…provocative and streamlined at once! I would like to see a sash, too. Maybe it could be the olive fabric on one side and the Liberty on the other, for a fluttery, peek-a-boo effect with the print? Nice nice job, and you picked a great pattern for a bunch of different events. Looks good!
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This dress is great! I just started reading your blog love it…congrats on finishing this piece! Itd look awesome with a cool pair of tights and ankle boots or a peep toe shoe. What were you planning on wearing with it?
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Well, right now I’m wearing it with olive knee socks and cordovan penny loafers. But I like the tights/peep toes idea. 🙂
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Oh, one ironing tip, especially for this type fabric… iron from the inside! No shine that way! The dress is great!
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Oh, one ironing tip, especially for this type fabric… iron from the inside! No shine that way! The dress is great!
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Yay, Erin made a new dress! Looks lovely.Congratulations on mastering a new thing. Nice feeling that. Claire Schaeffer has a book called something like “101 sewing shortcuts”. I think most of the tips are not time saving so much as “101 ways to do it right the first time and not spend all night unpicking the **** thing”. But her title is probably snappier.I agree with Cookie about a double sided sash!Cheers,AJ
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SEVEN inches?? LOL. How tall are you?? I can see it in my mind—trying it on before hemming, and the dress reaching to an awkward not quite floor length.
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Nice job, Erin! One old-fashioned ironing tip from my mother, who actually attended house-keeping school (not fun to grow up with…) back in the day:Use an old men’s cloth handkerchief (or similar quality fabric scrap – cotton lawn?) instead of a pressing cloth, wet it down and wring out well, straighten out over area to be pressed, and press straight down with rather light pressure. Let area dry a bit before handling.This works shine-free for me even on fine wool suits, unlike my steam iron.
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Yay! I love new dresses!
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Did you put pockets in it?
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I am totally jumping on the Liberty-print belt bandwagon, Erin. I love the facing and think a belt of the same fabric would really make the shape pop. That said, it is super cute! And where did you put the pockets? I can’t quite tell from the photo.
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Erin, that’s BEAUTIFUL! You really do have The Vision with your dressmaking. Well done!Since you asked.. *sheepish grin and never one to knock an invite for a promotional blurb..* that was one you purchased from lil’ ol’ me back in October.. ‘Vogue 9670 Vintage 50’s Sewing Pattern OOH SO PRETTY Slit Neck Box Pleats Skirt Afternoon Dress, 2 Styles’. WELL DONE!!
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Beautiful dress, I love the facing. I second or third (I lost count) the two sided sash idea. Always an excuse for more Liberty 🙂
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I love it! I agree that those contrasting lapels add a lot. It looks lovely. Zippers always give me trouble too. I’m so glad you found a method to conquer them. 🙂
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Love the Liberty print peeking out! And Erin, please send the marking tip for the invisible zipper!! I have the same problem…over and over! I greatly appreciate it.And I can’t wait to see your new crossword dress!
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Love the dress Erin!!!… The Liberty print total makes this dress. Like another posted stated I would have passed on this pattern if I had not seen your version with it. You did a wonder job on the zipper, I will have to use your trick too. I have a graduation dress I need to be making, Thanks!!!
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All of the above, and how brave of you to sew at eleven at night! Certain disaster for me.
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Might I make a suggestion? You may want to paint the zipper pull with nail polish to help it blend in! Then it won’t stand out so much. It’s just a thought. We do it and this way with a hidden zipper like this you can use any color zipper you want!
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I’m impressed with the side zipper, which I go to extreme efforts to avoid putting in. Great job, Erin.
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Beautiful, Erin, I want to say the facing makes the dress, but the whole thing is so nice. As usual, I see I missed a good tip–wat is the tip for matching seams when putting in a zipper?
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Oops, never mind, found the zipper tip, should have read all the comments first.
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I study couture sewing at FIT, and I’ve done some tailoring in the past, as well. I use a piece of undyed silk organza as a pressing cloth. You can see what you’re doing through it, and it can take an enormous amount of heat from the iron. I love the dress! Congratulations on finishing it.
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Well now, you didn’t buy that pattern from me but I have that pattern in the same size on Born Too Late Vintage Patterns!
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I have a huge problem and could really use some advice… I bought a brides maid dress online and have no time to return it, apparently my back is too wide! Thats the excuse im going with, anyways, i cant zip it up all the way, and i need to know if there is a way that I can make the zipper stop in an apropriate place and then hide the rest of the zipper teeth? If you have suggestions please e-mail me soon! I have until May to get this fixed!
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