The Hundred Dresses: Day 45

So this is the same dress as yesterday (SimplicityVogue 5121), but was made earlier … this was the trial run:

floral Vogue 5121

Does anyone have a favorite source for inexpensive, brightly-colored buttons? My local fabric stores tend toward the bejeweled and the overly-representative (cats, soccer balls, etc.) I was hoping to find turquoise buttons but I like the yellow more now that I see it in the photo:
floral Vogue 5121 front bodice

The zipper. Semi-related question, if anyone knows: when you’re altering a bodice to allow for more … padding … in the waistish region, occasionally I feel like the sides of the bodice slope down a bit more than they ought. Anyone have a link to a good tutorial? My cursory investigations have only gotten me so far.
floral Vogue 5121 side zip

This collar was made before I read Kathleen’s instructions. See the difference? See that roll in the wrong direction? It’s terrible. (Luckily it’s at the back of my neck so I don’t see it very often.) I would take it off and redo it … but … (looks off into the middle distance, whistles).
floral Vogue 5121 rolling collar 2

Sleeve finished with bias tape, as per usual:
floral Vogue 5121 sleeve hem

The back view:
floral Vogue 5121 back

This is my absolute favorite kind of fabric for a trial run. First, it was cheap. (I think maybe under $3/yard? Might have been a dollar-a-yard wonder, even.) It’s also a nice mid-weight poplin, so I don’t have to worry about fabric being too lightweight and floaty or too stiff and unyielding. And most importantly, it is SO BUSY that I could have created & mended a giant triangular tear in the front of the bodice and you wouldn’t even notice from further than a foot away. Cheap and busy are probably the most important criteria for “wearable muslin” first drafts with new patterns, in my opinion. I mean, there’s a center-back seam in that picture right above, and not only did I not try to match the pattern, I’m not sure if it would have made any difference if I had …

 

The Hundred Dresses: Day 44

Totally new dress! I bought this pattern ages ago, and finally finally made it up:

Liberty books Vogue 5121

It’s Vogue 5121, and Liberty fabric (Doctor Tulloch). Here, check out the buttons:
Liberty books Vogue 5121  front bodice buttons

They’re a little too far over … I’m going to have to move them over a tinch. They’re just plain ol’ plastic buttons from the fabric store. I can’t remember whether I bought them at the Hancock’s that was going out of business near my house in Chicago, or at Fabric Outlet in the Mission. Either way they match nicely, don’t they?

I’m very happy with the collar — I used Kathleen’s collar adjustment and it worked beautifully:
Liberty books Vogue 5121 collar front

(More photos of the collar under construction at the bottom of this post.)

Also, this zipper is SO much better because wonderful reader BeckyW sent me a link to Ken’s Sewing Center, where I bought a zipper foot made especially for my Juki, and it is like night and day. It’s like going from a butter knife to a steak knife.
Liberty books Vogue 5121 side zipper

And, um, here’s the back. I thought about mirroring the print along that back center seam but I almost didn’t have enough fabric, so I decided against it.
Liberty books Vogue 5121 back

Extra collar pictures! This is the underside — do you see how the seam is nudged to the back?
collar technique 1

Here’s the other side, a little wonkier:
collar technique 2

And  from the front (these were taken on my ironing board, thus the weird light):
collar technique 3

And the other side:
collar technique 4

This collar is a bit tricky, attachmentwise, so it was nice to have it all crisp and tidy for the rest of the seams.

I like this dress and want to make it much, much more. It’s really fun to wear. In fact, I made this version as a stunt dress, because I went to talk to some very nice folks at the ALA a few weeks ago, and this is what I wore. (With a bright pink belt and pink shoes.)

This was the second time I made this pattern; you’ll see the draft version tomorrow.