So this is what I worked on this weekend. I'm not *thrilled* with it, and so I figured I'd put it up for your comments.
What's wrong:
— the skirt was originally about 3" longer, which was WAY TOO LONG, Texas-compound long, but I'd already sewn on the ruffle, which meant I had to take it up from the waist. Which meant resewing the seams on either side of the center front and back piece (had already put in the pockets, too, so I didn't want to resew those seams).
— I wanted to match the darts with the center front seams so I had to ease the front into the skirt and so it wrinkled. I think if I stay it with some twill tape it will stay stretched, but I haven't done that yet.
— I thought I was ready for an elegant gray dress, monochrome and understated and all that, but now that I have one I think it needs some color. Where? I could sew middy braid around the neck and hem … or, you know, I could just wear a yellow cardigan over it (which is what I'll probably end up doing anyway).
The weirdness on the right-hand side of the picture (left-hand side of the dress) is from pinning it — I haven't put in the zipper yet. Nor have I sewn down the sleeve self-facings.
This dress came about because I (shock, horror!) managed to LOSE the pieces for this pattern:
I don't know where they went; all I know is that I can't find them. Arrgh.
So I took a six-gore skirt from a pattern I had NOT lost the pieces from (McCalls 3036, which I don't have a link to right now), did some rudimentary math and some pattern.jpgece surgery, and put together the skirt. Then I just slapped on the bodice from McCalls 8858 again.
Here's a few more pics:
Anyway, am I not thrilled about this dress because it's inherently not a thriller, or am I not thrilled about this dress because I had to do too much fussing with it? (Actually, the more I look at it the more fun I think it will be to wear, if I try not to overthink it too much. And if I finally wear a solid-colored dress, perhaps I could finally wear some of the colorful jewelry I've collected …)
Thoughts?
A Dress A Day 
I think it’s the color, but if I were you, I’d bite the bullet and remove the skirt. Then I’d rip it out and start over so it lays the way you want. Then, I’d sew some bright red soutache around the neck, front and back. Red and grey go well together. Then I’d add the same soutache to the ruffle hem.
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I actually like it… I think it would look great with a red belt…
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I would personally vote for either lime green or 60’s mod orange piping (or just a nice addition of bias tape to take my normal method of trimming) around the neckline and sleeves. Add coordinating belt/sash at waist and it is awesome. The pockets could be handled in the same manner.Electric blue could also work, but I am less fond of that contrast with grey than the previous other two. That way, you get a pop of color that outlines the construction without making the dress busy when it was originally supposed to be understated. Then it’s just understated with highlights.
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The model on the pattern seems to be wearing a crinoline. That, combined with your general joie de vivre, would carry this off just fine.
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Honestly, I feel the severity of the upper part of the dress fights with the ruffle. I think if you put in cap sleeves instead that might soften the whole thing–and then made a little belt (or cumberbund) out of a great remnant-something with a blue or green in it to tame that grey a bit. It could be gorgeous. Or orange piping – I like that!
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I think what makes the ruffled skirt work is the original bodice…v-neckline with center front seam is sophisticated and a nice complement/contrast to full skirt with ruffles. Maybe that’s what makes your version of the dress seem less than thrilling and more prairie girl gone, well, grey. I really love the skirt AND the color and think that next time you could totally rock it with a rethink on the bodice. In the meantime, a colorful cardigan and some killer shoes makes all things right again….
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It so needs a red polka dot belt! With a gorgeous buckle!
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I like it the way it is. Add some nice bright shoes and jewelry and it’ll just make them pop. It’s hard to tell when it’s not on a person.
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This dress cries out for Smart Accessories! Yellow or red and white shoes, a colorful necklace, a bright jacket or sweater, a thin belt… Cute colored buttons? Piping? You’re right, it does need…Something. When you find that something, you’ll know it.
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I think the color is very nice, but I like gray. This dress might be the perfect backdrop for any number of fun accessories!
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I think you hate it for two reasons – one, that you had to ‘make do’ in terms of trying to recreate something that you had a picture of and KNEW you once had the pattern pieces for. A lot of sweat and anxiety invested there, I think – disappointment already. Then, you have this grey thing going, which I think might have worked if it had been made in something like dupioni – something that had some light-playing-off-the-surface thing going for it. So, I can understand your feelings of disappointment. There is part of you that wants to throw up your hands and resort to the ‘plastic bag at the back of the closet’ thing. I’m with celaine53f – this baby needs a wildly colored belt – she likes red polka dots. I’m thinking that if you are going to go with the yellow cardi, then I’d go with a wide yellow stretchy belt with a yellow patent buckle. Or red. Or fuschia. Or make an obi sash out of some way crazy plaid (as long as one of the colors is grey or black)dupioni and put the bow smack dab in the front. I would not invest another minute in trying to ‘fix’ the dress – that’s like what my mom used to do with cutting my hair and I used to end up with super short hair which was STILL uneven.
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Beautiful! I would buy it!
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I agree with the color complaint. Ruffles were not meant for gray. At least not *that* gray. Brightening it up with a cardigan or belt will certainly help–as might ditching the little V detail of the neckline. Too much whimsy in the wrong place, I think. The bodice in the original pattern was striking, but not whimsical. Does that make sense? Best of luck. My sewing mojo was not in attendance this weekend, either. Very annoying.
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I think a cardigan with a pattern would look great, as well as colorful pins or a great necklace, bright flats, lots of ways to dress this up. I like it. It will look smashing on you, I promise! From Karen S.
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My sewing mojo is off lately, too…I do my best sewing when it’s warmer, and it’s practically been knitting weather. That said, I think a yellow cardie, red shoes and a red belt and beads (or something) will totally resucitate this. I personally like the contrast between the ruffliness and the seriousness of the gray. Another thought would be to sew a few brightly colored rows of ricrack, at the hem and around the neckline, “midcentury Mexican” style.
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Perfect canvas for wild, bright accessories. Where’s that yellow purse?
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Texas compound long……Erin you are so funny!!
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My two cents worth…. rip the skirt off (practicing perseverance and patience). Add rickrack (the color of your choosing) down the 2 center front seams and possibly around the neck edge. Remove the ruffles and reapply the fabric as large inverted pleats. Wear with a thin buckle belt to match the rickrack and matching cardigans and flats.Laura
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I too like grey and I think it’ll look lovely as is, once finished and accessorised (shoes, jewellery, cardie). I like the slightly serious top, serious colour, combined with the soft, playful ruffle of the skirt. Any one of your ‘object of contention’ summer short-sleeved cardies with that will look fab! Personally, I’d go for a soft orange, but yellow would look lovely too.
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I’m not quite seeing it yet. It’s not saying “Texas compound” to me but it’s kind of whispering “Mennonite-inspired”. Not that there’s anything wrong with Mennonite dresses, but it seems that that was not the look you wanted.Is it too big for the dressform, or is it supposed to fit like that? I think its bagginess is spoiling the effect, but that might be a problem that goes away on its own when worn on a proper human body and with a crinoline.
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I’m with your instinct about yellow. It screams for it. I see a wide sash: yellow with big white polka dots, your cardigan, and, if I must get up on the petticoat soap box, give that ruffle the support it deserves and find/make a yellow petticoat! It doesn’t have to be enormous, but show off that ruffle, Girl, and the inherent silhouette of the design.
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add a couple of internal bustles to the skirt near the hem. it will take it out of texas compound land and turn it into something you might wear in SoHO.Don’t add rickrack or anything cute in a contrasting color. Yoiu may want to add a bit of texture or interest to the bodice or change the neckline a bit. add color with jewelery or with a cardigan.
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Hi Erin- I am the same way with color—I love it and can’t get enough, but I have to say I do feel good wearing a neutral,sophisticated color dress now and then. I love the dress and think I am going to run to Vogue for some grey! I might not like it as much if it didn’t have the ruffle, but i think the steel grey and ruffle is the perfect combo. As for the length, I think you could get away with it a little longer and wear with cute sandals. If that doesn’t work, how would it look with a shorted ruffle?
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A thin yellow belt, preferably patent leather.
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A very narrow scallop ruffle along the sleeve openings, methinks.
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You know, Erin, the first thing I thought was that this dress is screaming for some yellow. But nominally, so that you can also do the cardigan and/or other accessories.You’re not going to like hearing this, but I think also part of the problem is that the ruffles at the hem aren’t deep enough. The dress doesn’t need to be longer, but the ruffles need to be deeper; probably about half again as long, and a little lining with a bit of netting attached for a make-do crinoline wouldn’t hurt underneath.For what it’s worth, I love the color grey that you chose. A lot of grey is just blah. This at least has some interest. If you even just put the tie at the waist in bright yellow, I think it would make it fabulous.
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It wants piping on the bodice, in a color. It also wants piping to define the skirt panels. I like the belt ideas. This dress is austere enough that a bright belt would pop. It probably needs to have belt and jewelry coordinated and vaguely matchy.The crinoline idea is also good. The skirt looks somewhat saggy, and it just doesn’t suit the style of the dress. It would be less serious if the skirt had the fluff needed (plus, that would show off the piping).
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I really like the dress, but i agree it could use a little colour … something like this maybe? http://www.ties.be/bloglinks/dress.jpgyou could stitch the shape of a necklace onto the dress instead of wearing a real one … makes it a bit more special …
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I agree with the above that the grey is fighting with the ruffle. It like it wants to a be a business square dance dress.However, a bright green wide sash would help a lot and/or lopping off the bottom ruffle entirely and making it more clean-lined, which is what I think the grey calls for.I have seen your videos and in person at the Caxton Club many years ago. I can’t see you in grey at all. If you want to try monochrome, I think a slate blue, chocolate, forest, or for fun a cobalt, would be better for you.
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My first response was that it needed a brightly coloured belt or sash.
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Having been a devotee of bright colour all my life I found myself married to a man who loves drab. He somehow has convinced me about the beauty of charcoal grey.Personally I wouldn’t add in any colour to the dress itself, purely because this shade of grey will go with a yellow cardigan, or a hot pink belt, or an oversized turquoise necklace, or a duck egg blue shoe-and-handbag combo. It’ll be a great blank canvas as it is, and you will find it extremely wearable.I also think the rufles are fabulous, they lift the whole thing.
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You can alleviate the heaviness of the fabric with some yellow fabric paint. Scribble or splash it on for some newfound excitement.
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Use white piping, or possibly a combo of black and white, so you could wear it with any bright color you felt like wearing that day. Could we see it with a crinoline? Perhaps the added volume on the skirt would help to balance the bodice.
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i certainly love it. it seems like you don’t have a love for belts – but a red belt and shoes with this, i think, would be fantastic. or some turquoise accents. my bet is you don’t like it because it’s not the pattern you had in your head, the one you lost the pieces to. love the dress for itself! 🙂
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Yellow or red belt, sweater, jewlery and shoes, this dress needs a LOT Of spiceing up!Tru
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I’ve always been a fan of embroidery as a way to spice something up. I think it would be cute with yellow finches perched on either side of the upper bodice, or a wiener dog stitched in place of a breast pocket. Even if that is too much work, there are lots of interesting patches floating around.I’m having a similar problem with a recent dress. It fits perfectly, but it is the exact color (a medium blue) and length of a hospital gown. I’m contemplating screen priting clouds on the lower part of the skirt, or stitching an anatomically correct heart on the upper bodice.
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I would resist the urge to add color to the dress- you say you have fun jewelery, and we know you have a plethora of cardigans, adding color to the dress limits what colors you can wear with it. I”m seeing black with large clunky silver jewelry.I agree it needs a crinoline in the worst possible way. I would love to see it with a bright pink or scandalous scarlet peeking out from under it.Remember lapel pins aren’t just for lapels. Use a few to make a fun vignette on the skirt.
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I love grey, as a rule, but there’s something about the grey that looks sort of dark. Bright accessories (yellow or otherwise) will definitely brighten it up.I don’t think I’d add any coloured trim on this dress. I might add white or black piping or soutache braid up at the neck, around the sleeve area, and maybe along the seam over the ruffles. I say white or black (well, even a light shimmery grey or silver) so that it will still go with lots of colours but will subtly add some emphasis and focus. Honestly, I like this dress, and it seems like lots of other people do, too. I like that the ruffles are not too overpowering and I like the top. I don’t notice the wrinkles unless you point them out and even then those would hide when worn or under a belt.I understand why you might not like this dress, though – it’s in a colour you don’t normally wear, in a style that’s not exactly what you wanted, and although it captures some of the details of the dress you wanted, it doesn’t have quite all of the spirit of that original dress.I have several dresses that I’ve been unhappy with. One was a “wench dress” that was my first major pattern design project. I’d seen it somewhere and had to make my own. I went through a lot to get just the right fabric and notions. Then I wore it twice. I wasn’t happy with it either time, although people told me it was nice. I just didn’t feel my normal pretty, confident self in that dress, and I’m not sure that I ever will. That experience and others have taught me that some things, no matter how awesome they are in my head or how gorgeous they are on other people, will not look right on me. Before, I worked to finish them no matter what. Now, as soon as I recognize that I don’t love something, I put it away. Most times they stay unfinished although I have been known to go through the things I put away and to finish/fix them up and wear them.So I would understand if you just put this dress away without finishing it and I give you permission to do that :). If you don’t want to do that – and there are reasons not to – then you might think about taking a one-dress break from it. Go forth and make an awesome shirtdress in a fabulous fabric. Then come back to this. Fresh eyes can make a huge difference.Good luck!
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Erin,The worst construction problem I see is the gathering where you eased the bodice. This is not a place where easing is the answer. The fix is easy – just undo the front waist seam past the dart. Then take up the dart seams from the center only – that way the darts will still match the skirt seams. That will smooth it down correctly. I really don’t think stay tape will fix the problem- especially the way it seems to wrinkle toward the right side. I make my living doing alterations and I really think this will solve the bodice/waist problem.Janet from Alabama
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Wow. Erin, I love you, and… I really hate that dress. It’s saggy and baggy and dreary, and sad. I’ve loved every one of your dresses you’ve shared with us, but this one…one of these things is not like the others!-Sandra
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I agree with having a longer ruffle (a proportion thing, the pattern itself shows a longer ruffle)and V-neckline. I see the neckline as adding to the austere feel of the dress.I also agree with the others that the waist seam needs *something*. And a yellow cardi, there you go!
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I say sash! And I say mustard-colored! This may not be your style, but I think a sash that wraps several times around and ends in a bow at the front would be darling.
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A simple gray dress is always welcome and useful! I can’t speak to the construction (except to echo that a deeper flounce, without lengthening the dress, would be graceful), but I DO agree that colorful trim would be jarring. And if you feel you were winging the construction, anyway, you might not want to call attention to it. I agree that white, black, soft silver or a lighter gray would be best. My first vote was white/cream, but the silver idea is intriguing, especially if this is headed for bright, jazzy accessories.
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I have a feeling that every seamstress has a basket full of garments that “didn’t quite work” for them. I know I do. If you think that a quick fix like adding a colorful belt and maybe some contrast along the neckline could make you love it and feel happy, then I would go for it. I’m just suspicious that you might continue along in this dress’ journey and still never pick it from your closet to wear. If that’s the case, put it in your basket, be refreshed, renewed and re-inspired to start again–either this project but probably more likely a new one.Best- Rachel
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The top and the bottom seem mismatched. The top is severe (severe grey with a high neckline say “I’m in power!” but the ruffle says, “oh, little ol’ me.” I think the two ideas can combine, but not in this dress. A v-neck would help balance out the mismatch between the top and the bottom.
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I agree with vespabelle about the mismatch.thing is, I just don’t like ruffles, so maybe that’s the issue for me. Would a crinoline (suggested above) do the trick? or one of the many color suggestions that people have offered?or maybe…ditch this one and sew up a grey dupioni sheath dress…good luck!
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sounds like the sewing gremlins paid you a visit…I think a hint of off-white piping at the neck would pop this dress. And sometimes taking the blasted ruffle off the right way to fix the length.
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sounds like the sewing gremlins paid you a visit…I think a hint of off-white piping at the neck would pop this dress. And sometimes taking the blasted ruffle off the right way to fix the length.
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sounds like the sewing gremlins paid you a visit…I think a hint of off-white piping at the neck would pop this dress. And sometimes taking the blasted ruffle off the right way to fix the length.
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I second the person who said ‘Mnemonite’ (no offense to them, just their clothes). I think a grey dress is great. But not Texas-compound long, not with ruffles. Can’t you just take off the ruffles and hem it right there? As to color, I agree too that it could use some. But I vaguely remember reading something about you buying 15 cardigans in shocking colors, so I’d omit color on the dress itself, much as rick-rack might seem tempting (too Mnemonite also) and wear it with a cardigan, or really bright shoes and jewelry. I think it’ll grow on you..
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