Breaking News: The Wearer of the Easter Parade Dress, Found!


Easter Parade Dress

Previously on A Dress A Day… noted blogger The Sartorialist took this lovely picture of a very stylish woman at the New York City Easter Parade. There was much speculation, here and elsewhere, about the exact provenance of her dress. Was is vintage? Was it reproduction? Was it a combination? The readers wanted to know!

Well, on today's exciting installment of A Dress A Day — the Easter Parade Dress Woman SPEAKS! Yes, thanks to the miracle of the Internet, where, any time Person A posts something that is even tangentially about Person B, a friend of Person B is bound to run across it and give Person B the heads-up. Sometimes, as in this case, it works for good. (Sometimes it works the other way, e.g. LiveJournal.)

The Easter Parade Dress Woman (EPDW for short, not that we'll ever have to use this again as I am about to reveal her name), Joie Gregory, kindly emailed to tell me that

"(the dress) is, in fact, a vintage late 50's Oleg Cassini couture, worn in honor of the late great designer for Jackie Kennedy. I altered nothing and isn't that green sensational? The green fabric is akin to a swimsuit material, and the rest is a heavy silk. I wore a voluminous petticoat so it would fall properly."

Joie went on to let me know that the New Look is her favorite time period, although she also has some 40s vintage, and (modestly) that's she's pleased that the dress has so many admirers. I'm pleased that A Dress A Day, your #1 news source for vintage dress speculation, was able to break this story (with the readers' help).

We now return you to your regularly scheduled Internet.

A not-so-bad wrap.


ebay item 6274486374

Have I posted this one before? I know I own it (now you can too, click on the image to go to the eBay auction, B38), but I don't know if I've posted it before, and frankly I'm much too tired to go back through more than 350 postings to find out. This is one of those times when I wish I had added keywords to all my posts, like, say, the pattern manufacturer and pattern number (and maybe ones like "rant" and "gratuitous mention of Jack Purcells").

Well. If I haven't written about this one before, I will now, and if I have, I'm a-goin' to say it again. I'm not entirely convinced that this dress isn't a bathrobe/negligee of some sort that someone at Vogue put in the wrong category, and then hoped no one would notice. I think it's really pretty, and keep looking at it with the idea of making it, but then I remember that what can wrap can also unwrap and that someone as clumsy and as prone to making sudden exaggerated gestures as I am should not really wear wrap dresses in public. But … I'm sure enough snaps would fix it. (The last time I made a wrap dress I actually ended up carrying a threaded needle and some extra snaps the first time I wore it, so certain was I that I would need them. I didn't, but I was glad I had them just in case.)

I would like to make the short version in some very thin, very limp cotton, perhaps pale yellow, and use wide grosgrain ribbon for the waist tie and narrower ribbon or bias binding in the same shade to finish the edges, instead of facings. Not sure whether I'd do the ribbon in contrast (robin's egg blue?) or a darker shade of yellow.

The one thing that signals "housedress" to me for this pattern is the pocket on the long version. If it were meant to be worn as an evening dress in that length, I don't think it would have a pocket, or if it did, such a plain one. It just doesn't feel right. This is a dress for entertaining at home, in the long version, or running out to the market for a couple of things, in the short version. Of course, now, running out to the market means sweatpants (::shudder::), a ratty ponytail, a baseball cap, and a t-shirt that proudly states your affiliation with a sports team or institute of higher learning. And flip-flops. And you know, I'd rather take my chances with the unwrapping wrap than leave the house in the above combo. Of course, considering the only thing that I own in the above list are the flip-flops, and since I only wear those when Absolutely Necessary, I suppose the chance of an Erin sweatpants sighting is pretty rare. Maybe if my house burned down and I had to borrow clothes from somebody. Now, Erin in a well-washed polka-dot skirt she made eight years ago, a polo shirt from Old Navy that is eligible to vote, and beat-up Jack Purcells? That sighting is so common the tabloids won't even take pictures of it anymore. The paparazzi just light more cigarettes and lie in wait for somebody else.

A combination you don't see every day.


ebay item 6274482967

And that combination would be "tasteful bondage-inspired detailed dress — sedate" which is how the seller of this Modes Royale pattern describes it in her eBay listing. In fact, googling the phrase "tasteful bondage-inspired" got no hits (and once I post this it will get one hit, making it a googlewhack).

Well, I suppose if you want something tasteful, yet bondage-inspired, this would be your top choice. Obviously, it's the jaunty pocket square that shouts "tasteful!" while the straps would be the "bondage-inspired" part.

If I were going to make this (which I'm NOT, because I can't imagine anything that would look more ludicrous on me than this, but if I WERE) it would be in bright red with shiny patent straps and a heart- or lipstick-print pocket square. Because, you know, I wouldn't want it to be OBVIOUS or anything. Perhaps if I could find some material printed with little handcuffs? That would be hysterical.

What shoes to wear with this? The new Gucci platform ankle-straps, of course (I can't believe you had to ask):
ebay item 6274482967

They're so beautiful — too bad I can't show proof that I'll be carried around on a palanquin, which I believe you have to furnish before you can buy a pair.

Lace.

lace fabric
I just bought this fabric on eBay. Correction: I just bought SEVEN yards of this fabric on eBay. It's 60" wide! Including shipping from the UK, it was less than $30. Supposedly it is not as white-white as the picture, but is instead a deep cream color.

Now, there's every chance that whatever I make will make me look like Attack of the Tablecloth Bride, but in my head right now this looks cool and summery, not as obvious (and more flattering on me) than bright white. I'm seeing something like the sweet and simple bodice from the other day, with a 3/4 circle skirt. Not quite sure how I'll line it, or with what (probably batiste or thin habotai silk, I would think) but that will all get worked out eventually.

I think this kind of crochet-y lace is less formal and easier to wear than what we usually think of as Lace with a capital L — and much less scratchy!

We'll see what it looks like when it arrives. Seven yards!

Speaking of tablecloths, I think I'm going to try to do a photo tutorial on making a skirt from a round tablecloth. Since there's more natural light (and more elbow room) in most coal mines than there is in my sewing room, this will take a bit of planning.

One last reminder … if you're going to send me a book cover for the book cover contest, tomorrow's the last day to do it!

Somebody at Converse is reading this blog.


liberty Jack Purcells

I can hear the conversation in the meeting right now. "That Erin, over at Dress A Day — she *really* loves Jack Purcells."

"Yeah, that's right. She says she has a dozen pairs! But she buys them on eBay. We have to figure out a way to get her to buy them from us."

"Well, what else does she like?"

"Hmmm … let's look at the dossier: Georgette Heyer, Wired magazine, collars, Cadbury Mini Eggs …"

"Those are not exactly SHOE CONCEPTS, dude."

"Not even the Mini Eggs? Girls love chocolate and shoes, you know that."

"I'm going to pretend that didn't come out of your mouth. Do you want the Manolo to mock you?"

"Wait! She loves this stuff — "Liberty prints"? You heard of those?"

"You heard of Google?"

"Holy bingo! — this is it. Get those Liberty people on the phone!"

"But will she really spend $100 on a pair of sneakers? Won't she just wait for them to show up on eBay?"

"Watch and see, grasshopper. Watch and see."

Yeah, they have my number, all right. I don't know if I can spend $100 on these! But … LIBERTY! JACK PURCELLS! It's not my favorite Liberty print. It's not my favorite colorway. But LIBERTY JACK PURCELLS! Do you think this will work?

Dear Converse,

I wear a Men's size 6.5, and I will wear these everywhere and stop everyone who passes me, just like the Ancient Mariner, to tell them about LIBERTY JACK PURCELLS.

You know what I'm hinting at.

Your pal,

Erin

I'm also tempted by these, but I have to try them on first:

liberty Jack Purcells

But — LIBERTY JACK PURCELLS! They may get me yet.

An ID on the Easter Parade dress fabric?


ebay item 8305987417

Robin sent a link to this Alexander Henry fabric, which looks an awful lot like the fabric in that great Easter Parade dress Sartorialist posted the other day. Which means she made the whole thing, most likely, and didn't alter it. That makes the green fabric an even more interesting and exciting choice!

It is soooooo geeky that I find this fascinating, isn't it? This is the dress equivalent of "and it was 10.3.9, not 10.3.8!". Or something equally geeky. When I start obsessing over whether someone used seam binding or did a turned-up hem, that's when you can start writing "*cough*, Erin …" in the comments. Okay?

Kawaaaaaaaaiiiiiiii!

kawaii1

Okay, Liesl over at disdressed told me about a place in SoHo that has Japanese fabrics (and don’t think I won’t be there right off the plane next time I go to New York [note to folks who work with me: I exaggerate here for effect]). But I also followed a link to Kitty Craft, a website based in Korea which carries PAGES of insanely cute Japanese fabrics.

How insane? There’s about a page and a half of Anne of Green Gables fabric. (Yes, she’s big in Japan.) There is the fabric above, which I was heartbroken to learn I could not buy four yards of, because they didn’t have four yards in stock (but then relieved when I realized what four yards plus shipping would cost). [Removed link as the site now redirects to someplace NOT FUN]

There are also these bunnies:
kawaii-2
I didn’t put this one full-size — that much cute can kill someone who’s not prepared. It’s like Houdini getting hit in the stomach.

Some caveats about the site — all the fabric is sold in 1/4 yard increments. If you buy 1/2 yd or more it is sold uncut. (That is, you don’t get two quarter-yard pieces.) It’s Korea, so shipping is … high. Do join their mailing list, you get a discount you can use right away. And if a pop-up appears saying “Quantity is not sufficient”, it’s not YOUR quantity, it’s theirs. Keep lowering your quantity desired until what you want and what they have match.

And if anyone has a line on four yards of this stuff, or knows someone in Japan who can get me Japanese fabric wholesale to resell on this site … well, you know both my email address and my capacity for undying gratitude.

Sweet and Simple


simplicity 4982

I try not to post dress patterns that are already sold, but this one (which someone managed to snag off the thatperfectlittleblackdress.com site before I got there) is going to be an exception, because I want you all to note down the pattern number and put it on your watch lists.

This is an excellent pattern to have around. It's sweet, it's simple, and it really makes whatever wonderful fabric you've found the focus of the dress. It will have a completely different feel depending on whether you use heavy brocade, light silk, or flimsy cotton. I'd make it first in lined openwork lace, I think, and then in a silly quilting print. And I guarantee nobody would ever say "hey, isn't that the same pattern …?"

I have a couple of dress patterns like this — mostly dress bodices, which I keep out of their envelopes, pinned to a cork board in my sewing room. They're like "in case of emergency, put this on a circle skirt" patterns. It's reassuring to have quick bodices (which I know will fit) that can be matched with a quick skirt. Add pocket, finish hem & neck with premade seam binding, touch with hot iron — and you're out the door in a new dress.

Intermixed-up Duro dress


Intermix Mint dress
Liesl sent me this dress from Mint, sold on the Intermix site (click the image to go there).

I love the base fabric (cotton lawn with a neat print) but I'm not sold on the navy silk border OR the back zipper. This kind of dress should have a side zipper. A back zipper just ruins the line.

The navy silk … I don't like the pairing of silk charmeuse with cotton lawn, and I don't like navy. I think this would have been much better with orange gingham border. The whole point of the Duro-style dress is to mix prints! Playing it safe with a solid border is just boring.

To add insult to injury, it's $415 (!!!) and comes in three sizes. Yep, 2, 4, and 6. Sure do cover a lot of American women when you carry that wide of a size range! Sheesh. In short: Mint, thanks for playing! We have some lovely parting gifts for you at the door.