The Hundred Dresses: Day 67

This is a modern pattern, Simplicity 2180. (You might remember my rant about the trouble I had trying to buy it as a downloadable pattern.)

I did eventually buy the pattern (in a regular store) and make it, like so:
black roses Simplicity 2180 front

It’s fabric I bought about ten yards of (at $1/yard) down in LA years and years ago. I really like it, because I don’t REALLY like it, if that makes sense. It’s great fabric for making trial versions out of, because I am happy to wear the end result but not depressed if I have to wad the whole thing up and throw it away. (I should have bought 20 yards …)

I was slightly overambitious with this first trial version. You can read the original blog post about it here.
black roses Simplicity 2180  bodice

 

I do love the lines of this pattern, although I didn’t realize the top part of the bodice would be so stand-offy from the neck:

black roses Simplicity 2180 piping

Here’s the side zip:
black roses Simplicity 2180  side zip

And a closer view so you can see I still have basting thread I haven’t pulled out:
black roses Simplicity 2180 side zip closer

 

And the back piping, which I’m not happy with at all, but which is usually hidden under a cardigan, anyway.

black roses Simplicity 2180 back piping

 

Here’s the full back view:

black roses Simplicity 2180 back

 

I did make the dress one more time (just to be SURE) but on the whole I’m a bit “meh” about it. The skirt isn’t quite as full as I like (for full range of movement) and I ended up not liking the neckline as much as I thought I would. Oh well, live and learn. Maybe I need to make it one more time to be ABSOLUTELY sure. In pink gingham?

The Hundred Dresses: Day 66

This one is definitely dug out from the time capsule. It’s been hanging in my “active duty” closet, but I’m not sure if I’ve worn it in the past year. It’s (mostly) Butterick 2344 — I know I used a different (circle) skirt pattern:

yellow broken plaid Butterick 2344 front

I originally made this dress in early 2006, to give one of the first “big-conference” talks I ever did.

yellow broken plaid Butterick 2344 bodice

It’s funny to look at these older dresses now — I see all sorts of things I’d do differently today. It looks like perhaps I didn’t pre-wash this piping …

yellow broken plaid Butterick 2344 midriff

Boy, I wish I had more of this fabric. I remember I bought it at Paron’s, and it wasn’t even in the sale section. I loved it that much. Such a sucker for broken plaids, I am. Looking at it now, though, I’m wondering if maybe it was upholstery fabric? It’s almost that weight. Not that there’s anything wrong with that, of course.

And this is probably the ONLY back-zip dress I currently own (that’s not vintage):

yellow broken plaid Butterick 2344 back

I know some folks have been asking in the comments “what’s with all the side zips?” and I thought I’d show this dress so I can explain … except there really isn’t a good explanation for why I vastly prefer side zippers; I only have justifications. Which mostly are:

  • I have some lingering shoulder issues from ill-advised and uncoordinated college sports days, which make doing the “reach to the middle of my back” contortion uncomfortable, and I travel alone quite a bit and don’t always have someone handy to help with the zipping/unzipping
  • Back zips are too public, I like my zippers hidden under my arm
  • Back zips are usually much longer than side zips, which means more leeway for things to go wrong
  • Harder to match prints across back zips (for me, at least)
  • I don’t like the extra step to finish the facing nicely at the top of zip (laziness)

That’s pretty much it! No really good reasons, except maybe the first one.

The Hundred Dresses: Day 65

Another Vogue 9929 … I made this one for a holiday party last year. You know sometimes when you wake up and think “I have nothing to wear to [EVENT TONIGHT]!”, and you sigh and make the best of it? Yeah, I never do that. If there’s at least four hours between me and [EVENT] I will make a new dress.
silk shantung 9929

I have had this fabric for probably a decade. I bought a grab-bag of silk shantung from an ad in the back of a magazine (maybe Threads?) years ago, and I think made maybe ONE thing out of the ten or so short yardage pieces I got.
silk shantung 9929 bodice

The zip is a bit off, but I was running out the door and couldn’t fix it:
silk shantung 9929 side zip

Also, I forgot to allow for extra hem depth because the fabric is so lightweight, so I ended up using some ball-chain trim as a hem weight. Works okay, and if it shows, it looks almost intentional!
silk shantung 9929 hem weighting
Here’s the back:
silk shantung 9929 back

I ended up wearing this with a bright fuchsia cardigan, festive but slightly less all-out Christmassy than red. And it was a great party!

The Hundred Dresses: Day 64

This is McCall’s 8858, which, for quite some time, was my favorite pattern. I think this is one of the nicest dresses I made with it:

Enchanted Garden McCall's 8858

It’s Liberty twill, a pattern called “Enchanted Garden”. I wish I had about eighty more yards of this. (I did have enough left over after making this dress to make a skirt, though.)

Enchanted Garden McCall's 8858 bodice

Another thing I love about this dress is that a few years back J. Crew made flats in this same fabric (I should have remembered to take a picture of them as well). So occasionally I wear them together. Here’s a close-up of the fabric, isn’t it fun?

Enchanted Garden McCall's 8858 closeup

As I go through and take pictures of older dresses, I’m realizing how much my sewing has improved even in a few short years — I think I should credit all y’all, as sewing for “publication” has made me a bit more fastidious. I think I would have clipped this seam better, now, although I like to think of that visible blue facing as a design detail:

Enchanted Garden McCall's 8858 collar

 

The zipper’s pretty good:

Enchanted Garden McCall's 8858 side zip and pocket

 

And the back:

Enchanted Garden McCall's 8858 back

Looking at this pattern again, it’s starting to give me ideas. I do love that bodice …

The Hundred Dresses: Day 63

I thought today I would show you the opposite of yesterday’s Vogue 9929. Same pattern, completely different feel:

Liberty Tomary Vogue 9929 front

This is Liberty Tomary, and I bought it because it just seemed so autumn-y. Great for those days in California where the calendar says it is almost Halloween but the thermometer says “you won’t need that cardigan sweater.” I love this color combination of slate gray, pumpkin orange, and mashed-baby-food-peas green:

Liberty Tomary Vogue 9929 bodice

Here’s the side zip:

Liberty Tomary Vogue 9929 side zip

And the back:

Liberty Tomary Vogue 9929 back 2

 

I like to wear this with mustard-colored knee socks and brown boots; and carry a cardigan, just in case. I also have a goldenrod-colored gauze scarf that looks nice with this dress. Can you tell I’m already getting wistful for fall clothes, and me with a bin full of seersucker and madras left to sew for this summer still?

The Hundred Dresses: Day 62

I keep finding Vogue 9929s. I can’t believe I made so many of them! I remember this one went together really quickly:

splatter Vogue 9929 front

I think this is a quilting cotton, or something not far from it. I have no idea where I bought it, but here’s a closer look:
splatter Vogue 9929 binding

And the bodice:
splatter Vogue 9929 bodice

And the side zip (B-):
splatter Vogue 9929 side zip

The back:
splatter Vogue 9929 back

I really wish I had the right color pink or green Keds to wear with this. I think I mostly default to yellow sandals … this is definitely a summer-Saturday dresses (in places with warmer summer Saturdays than here). It goes extremely well with ice cream …

 

The Hundred Dresses: Day 61

I *think* this is the last Vogue 8728 — I went and dug it out of the “winter dresses” storage container in the garage, although really, in San Francisco you can pretty much wear your winter clothes on any random day in July. My east coast habits will die hard, though, and I’ll pull out that bin of corduroy and wool just when we hit that string of lovely 70+F days in late September and early October. (Someday I’ll learn …)

Speaking of wool, this is Liberty Jubilee, which is one of my favorite fabrics in the world. Jubilee is not the pattern name; it’s the name of their wool/cotton mix. It’s lightweight, warm, and wrinkle-free. (This was not-so-gently placed in the aforementioned storage bin and I was able to photograph it without pressing it.) I don’t think they make it anymore, which is a shame. (There’s also the Burwood Liberty fabric, which is wool/silk … I have a piece but I haven’t made anything with it yet.)

Liberty Jubilee Vogue 8728 front

Here’s the bodice:
Liberty Jubilee Vogue 8728 bodice

And the side zip & pocket:
Liberty Jubilee Vogue 8728 side zip and pocket

And the back:
Liberty Jubilee Vogue 8728 back 2

 

Wow, the days are going by really quickly. I can’t believe that we’ll be done in a little over a month!

The Hundred Dresses: Day 60

Another Vogue 8728 — you’ve seen this one before, too. I do so love a broken plaid:

broken plaid Vogue 8728

I only wish I had this fabric with the dark/light sections reversed. That would be even better.

broken plaid Vogue 8728 bodice

I’m particularly fond of this stony gray.

broken plaid Vogue 8728 side zip

The placement of the blank bits on the back was accidental but I like how they balance each other out …

broken plaid Vogue 8728 back

I vaguely remember that I made this dress for a traveling occasion (not sure which one) and ended up hemming it in a hotel room (maybe?). In any case, I’m going to use that dim recollection as an excuse to post my traveling sewing kit:

Sewing Kit #5 (complete kit)

This is the one I toss in my suitcase when I’m traveling. I was going to tell you how big it is but you can see the seam gauge ruler right there. Here it is outside the bag:

Sewing Kit #1

The Sharpie is for, well, Sharpie-ing, and the dental floss is really handy for sewing on coat buttons that inconveniently pop off. I used to carry buttonhole twist but I hated carrying a whole spool and I usually had the wrong color, anyway. (The Sharpie comes in handy for coloring the dental floss that’s visible once you’ve sewn on the button.) Here are the little Altoid tins opened: safety pins, random button assortment for close-enough matches, and a little bit of fusible tape … just in case.

Sewing Kit #3 (the tins)

And of course the pins and needles:

Sewing Kit #4 (the pins)

Do you have a portable sewing kit? What’s in it?

The Hundred Dresses: Day 59

Another Vogue 8728, this time in bright pink dotted swiss:

pink dotted swiss Vogue 8728

I posted this dress a couple of years ago — I wore it on my 40th birthday. It really is THAT PINK:
pink dotted swiss Vogue 8728 bodice
Here’s the side zip:
pink dotted swiss Vogue 8728 side zip
And the back:
pink dotted swiss Vogue 8728 back 2

I really do love dotted swiss, but I haven’t made up any other dresses in it since this one. (And I have at *least* three other pieces, and maybe five …) I’m thinking maybe that Simplicity pattern from the other day might be a good candidate …

And in The-Hundred-Dresses-the-book news, thanks very much to Jessica at Bed Knobs and Baubles for her very nice review!

The Hundred Dresses: Day 58

Don’t worry, there aren’t 8728 Vogue 8728s. This one dates from October 2011:

alphabet Vogue 8728 front

 

I think this may be my most recent alphabet-print dress. I have lots and lots of alphabet-print FABRIC still, but I haven’t felt the need to make any of it up recently. Perhaps because I give fewer dictionary-themed talks these days?

The bodice (the type’s not quite so sharp on this one):
alphabet Vogue 8728 bodice

Pretty decent zipper:
alphabet Vogue 8728 side zip

And the back:
alphabet Vogue 8728 back

Today’s Vogue 8728 comes with a bonus helping of Supreme Court Justice:

We meet again

(You can get the full story here.)

The Hundred Dresses (the book) is now up to eight Amazon reviews … but it’s always nice to have more, if you’ve read the book and want to have your say!